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Food

DINO'S ITALIAN RESTAURANT,

1235 Wampanaog Trail, East Providence (437-1178).

Tucked into a small plaza just off Route 114 South, Dino's Italian Restaurant inhabits a space originally designed for and occupied by the Adesso Cafe. As a result, the decor is trendy: walls pebbled with teal and purple display large abstract paintings, while the high ceilings are dominated by arbor-like track lights with grape-colored accents. Italian pop with a kick, much like the menu. Its appetizers alone include prosciutto with mango, not melon; bruschetta with sage, not basil; and, unexpectedly, California rolls, which are sushi with scallions and salmon. The entrées are also eclectic but remain primarily Mediterranean -- pork chops with a port wine sauce, steak with a Dijon horseradish crust, and bouillabaisse in a saffron broth. We began our meal with the roasted garlic and Brie soup ($3.25) and a grilled pizza bianco ($7.95). The latter was a bit crispy, but the onions and goat's cheese made for a great contrast. For entrées, we ordered cannelloni with mixed mushrooms ($10.95) -- homemade pasta stuffed with mushrooms, ricotta, Marsala, and garlic and covered with tomato sauce. Along with this, we had the bouillabaisse ($14.95), which was heaped with mussels, clams, and shrimp in an excellent broth. The downside of our visit was the 10- to 15-minute wait between courses. The dishes at Dino's are creative and appealing, but to encourage repeat customers, the kitchen should stick to a better schedule.

Full review.








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